Buy this shirt: Start Your Engines Tee shirt, hoodie, tannk top and long sleeve tee
While certain body shapes coming in and out of style is nothing new, the whiplash I feel somehow caught me off guard. Aren’t we tired of this yet? Surely there are enough trends to chase that my body doesn’t have to be one of them. For the last decade my body briefly stopped being a liability. I’ve seen steady progress in the arena of body acceptance, from increased designer size ranges (Abercrombie’s plus-size line is a stark departure from the brand’s public distaste for plus-size customers in 2006) to more mainstream adoption of Health at Every Size (a movement to deprioritize a patient’s weight in medical contexts) to the fashion-idol status awarded to plus-size celebrities (Lizzo, Aidy Bryant, and Jennifer Coolidge to name a few). These all previously felt impossible.Now suddenly I find myself thrust backward. I’m left wondering what this backslide means for the fashion industry; for the fat liberationists whose cries for change went beyond surface-level self-love to fighting for workplace rights that still aren’t enshrined in law; and for the younger generation who are about to learn what it’s like being fat in a time of thin worship.
After New York Fashion Week, many plus-size writers and influencers wondered where the representation had gone. The Fashion Spot releases a seasonal report on diversity at the shows and has seen that since spring 2016 size inclusivity has steadily increased, peaking in the spring 2020 season with 68 plus-size models appearing in shows (accounting for about 5% of total castings). The spring 2023 analysis has yet to be released. Still, a lack of diversity was certainly felt, and the sensation only intensified during the European shows.
For Gianluca Russo, the author of The Power of Plus, this regression of body diversity was inevitable and follows the same pattern of plus-size fashion in the ’90s, a movement that died down during the early aughts only to be revived by social media in 2010. The ’90s introduced the world to one of the first plus-size supermodels, Emme, and saw the launch of brands like Ashley Stewart and Torrid. Rosie O’Donnell had a successful daytime show, and Queen Latifah was making the pivot from music to movies.
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