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The act of preparing food may seem elemental, but if there’s one thing the reckoning in food media over the past few years has shown us, it’s that there’s no such thing as a “simple” food story. The historical and cultural context behind food is more talked about than ever, but too often the contributions of marginalized chefs and creators—particularly women, and particularly women of color—are still erased by a predominantly cis-hetero-patriarchal food industry. This is the territory that James Beard Award–winning food writer Mayukh Sen wades into with his new book, Taste Makers: Seven Immigrant Women Who Revolutionized Food in America, a group biography that tells the story of Marcella Hazan, Elena Zelayeta, Norma Shirley, and four other immigrant women whose cooking has helped define what we now think of, broadly, as “American food” (with a heavy cross-cultural influence). Recently Vogue spoke to Sen about his perspective on food writing as a queer child of immigrants, the scourges of industry racism and xenophobia that still plague the food industry, and the writers and publications that give him hope for the future. Read the full interview, below.
Well, they’re all very different. Some of the contributors, like Natasha Pickowicz (who is actually a pastry chef) and Devonn Francis, really came to the table with creations that were quite edible. Then there are artists like Jacqueline Grove, who made this watermelon jelly dish that is so intricate and beautiful. It doesn’t even look like food; it’s such a work of art. The book really runs the gamut. Oh, I think this is definitely something that is meant to live on your coffee table. It’s using food as a medium for exploring larger ideas in horror films. We did recipe development and recipe testing, and we worked with recipe editors, so all of the recipes in the book can be reproduced, but, you know, we would never expect you to be able to pull off the watermelon jelly. (Laughs.)
Mayukh Sen: Oh, man. I mean, it varies from hour to hour, minute to minute, but I’m just trying to enjoy this time as much as possible, because I know that this whole month will be unlike any other that I’ve ever experienced in my life. Every single day is just packed with a million different things. The genesis of this book was early in 2017, when I was a 25-year-old staff writer at a website called Food52, which readers might be familiar with. During my time there, I had begun amassing a small body of work of stories focused on figures in the food world who came from marginalized communities: those who tended to be women of color, queer people, queer people of color, immigrants, immigrants of color, what have you, and folks who fell under more than one of those umbrellas. A friend was looking at those stories, and he suggested that maybe there was a larger project that lived inside of all these stories. He just straight up said to me, “I wonder if you’re the person to write a book about immigration and food.” Of course, there have been books about those two subjects before, but I really heard what he had to say and put it in my back pocket. At 25, I was definitely not ready to take on a project as massive as a book, so I tabled it, but then I revisited it in 2018 when I went freelance of my own volition.
Product detail for this product:
Suitable for Women/Men/Girl/Boy, Fashion 3D digital print drawstring hoodies, long sleeve with big pocket front. It’s a good gift for birthday/Christmas and so on, The real color of the item may be slightly different from the pictures shown on website caused by many factors such as brightness of your monitor and light brightness, The print on the item might be slightly different from pictures for different batch productions, There may be 1-2 cm deviation in different sizes, locations, and stretch of fabrics. Size chart is for reference only, there may be a little difference with what you get.
- Material Type: 35% Cotton – 65% Polyester
- Soft material feels great on your skin and very light
- Features pronounced sleeve cuffs, prominent waistband hem and kangaroo pocket fringes
- Taped neck and shoulders for comfort and style
- Print: Dye-sublimation printing, colors won’t fade or peel
- Wash Care: Recommendation Wash it by hand in below 30-degree water, hang to dry in shade, prohibit bleaching, Low Iron if Necessary
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